Hi,
I am creating this short post because I got confused about the positioning while installing my CMP engineering solid bushings. I didn't see any instructions in the package, so I reached out to Cayn at CMP Engineering and he was really helpful.
In the photo below, the top two are the rear bushings, and the bottom two are the front bushings
I will call the place where the bushings insert into the subframe "sockets", I'm not sure if it's the right term. The front sockets are different than the rear ones, being slightly higher (deeper). The front bushings have a mounting stud with a hex and the rear ones are mounted with a bolt. This creates a requirement for having a gap between the top of the front bushings and the RACP, so the front bushings don't poke through the whole way. This is normal.
The picture below illustrates this "gap" (the front bushings will not make contact with the RACP when installed, as there will be a hex or a spacer between the RACP and the bushing)
One other detail that I wasn't sure what how to orient the flat sides as I'm pointing to in the next photo:
I got told by Cayn that this is intended for removal of the bushings, so make sure there is room to fit a tool. Cayn recommends positioning these flat edges so that if you run lines parallel to them it will form an "X" across the subframe (see next image).
Finally, here is an image showing the installed bushings:
As others have noted before, using the RTAB tool works to press those in, and cooling them in a freezer for a few hours really helps.
I am creating this short post because I got confused about the positioning while installing my CMP engineering solid bushings. I didn't see any instructions in the package, so I reached out to Cayn at CMP Engineering and he was really helpful.
In the photo below, the top two are the rear bushings, and the bottom two are the front bushings
I will call the place where the bushings insert into the subframe "sockets", I'm not sure if it's the right term. The front sockets are different than the rear ones, being slightly higher (deeper). The front bushings have a mounting stud with a hex and the rear ones are mounted with a bolt. This creates a requirement for having a gap between the top of the front bushings and the RACP, so the front bushings don't poke through the whole way. This is normal.
The picture below illustrates this "gap" (the front bushings will not make contact with the RACP when installed, as there will be a hex or a spacer between the RACP and the bushing)
One other detail that I wasn't sure what how to orient the flat sides as I'm pointing to in the next photo:
I got told by Cayn that this is intended for removal of the bushings, so make sure there is room to fit a tool. Cayn recommends positioning these flat edges so that if you run lines parallel to them it will form an "X" across the subframe (see next image).
Finally, here is an image showing the installed bushings:
As others have noted before, using the RTAB tool works to press those in, and cooling them in a freezer for a few hours really helps.